Skincare Myth：No Sun Protection at Home

Most people think that UV ways cannot emit through cement walls, so they do not apply any sunscreen products while staying at home, only apply it when they plan to go outside or any UV/sun exposure opportunities. Thus, do not wonder if these people have any pigmentation concern.

Applying sunscreen is essential even you are just staying at home no place to go. UV ways still can emit through cement walls and penetrate into your skin caused skin problems, just it is not as serious as you direct expose yourself under the hot sun. However, UV radiations could come from non-sun sources such as lightnings, computer monitors, copiers and etc. Therefore, sunscreens with moderate high values of sun protection factor (SPF 15-25) is recommended for everyone to wear in indoor.

So, today you should start to apply it even you are working in office as Office Lady or a housewife spend most of the time at home.


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Skincare Myth： Baby Products are Mild?

Based on the anatomical and functional characteristics of a baby's skin, their skin is more delicate than an adult's and prone to irritant and allergic skin problems. The ideal cleansers, moisturizers, powders, and sunscreens should be very mild to avoid irritation, allergic, or sensitizing skin reactions.

Despite this fairly intuitive, common sense information, it turns out that most skin-care products aimed at children are formulated to be anything but gentle and soothing. They are often an irritation waiting to happen. There are an alarming number of expensive and inexpensive baby products that are marketed as better for young, delicate skin—yet, for the most part, they aren't.

The baby section in the pharmacies, cosmetics counters and health food stores have sweet, adorably packaged shampoos, moisturizers, cleansers, and sun products. You may assume the manufacturers use only ingredients that will be the most gentle to your baby's skin, but that assumption is not accurate. Think about the wafting, appealing fragrances emanating from most baby products you've shopped for. Right there you've recognized a major problem—fragrance, serious enough that it makes me leery of using baby products for anyone's skin, let alone a baby's!

Products for babies and young children are usually highly fragranced. That delicious, recognizable aroma you could smell a mile away is nothing more than added fragrance, which we know can cause irritation. Moreover, baby products always have a pretty yellow or pink tint, which is added with artificial coloring, another group of problematic skin-care ingredients for sensitive skin. If baby products were really gentler than those that adults put on their skin, they would be fragrance free and contain no coloring agents. Sadly, few of those exist.


Cosmetics and hair-care companies know that mothers have an impulsive emotional pull toward scents that trigger the image of their babies. That subconscious pull is difficult for a marketer to ignore, given the way women gravitate to the fragrance generated by other perfume-laden products. In other words, hair and skin-care companies don't have much motivation to take these problematic ingredients out. That means you, the mother and consumer, as an advocate for your child, need to pay attention to this issue and choose fragrance-free and color-free products whenever you can.

Aside from the issue of fragrance and coloring agents, it is even more shocking when baby products contain such skin irritants such as propylene alcohol, alcohol denat, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol and etc. Their presence is disturbing because these are all problematic for an adult's skin and, thus, so much more for a child's. It is essential to avoid products for your child's skin (and yours for that matter) that contain any unnecessary irritants. Just paying attention to the ingredient label will give you far better information than the product description or claims on the package. Ignore the picture on the label of the sweet innocent child, especially when it can disguise a formula that is anything but sweet and innocent.




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Women'Secret Bamboo Bodycare

What do your mind appear when you see Women' Secret? I bet all will say lingerie. This brand keeps a strict eye on both aesthetic and practical detail. However, i just discovered that Women'secret come out with body showering series with eye-catching packaging. Do you ever believe that women'secret has shower gel??? It is not surprising anyway, even samsung or giorgio armani have cosmetic, it is acceptable, for me at least.

The images that i could grab is Women'Secret Bamboo bodycare, together will brilliant green colour catch my eye ball, I believe in this range would smell refreshing green. Not sure when it does arrive in any Malaysia retail store, it is an exciting news for Women'Secret fans.

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Product Comment：Sulwhasoo Snowise Whitening Cream

Scoop out the cream using spatula given, it is a luscious pearl white emulsion with aromatic herbal sensation. This face cream is formulated with Korean medicinal herbs, such as mulberry root, rhubarb, Hedyotis and etc, processed with salt broiling method to enhance medicinal value of these detoxifying antioxidant herbs and recover clear, even color-toned skin. Hedyotis extract helps brighten the complexion by protecting the skin against free radical damage and mulberry tree root extract has a cooling effect on the skin.

Sulwhasoo Snowise whitening cream is applied at the last step of daily skincare routine, after toner/serum, it is absorbed slowly, you have to massage it to help in absorption. In a nutshell, this cream is more suitable for combination dry skin. For normal to combination oily skin, Sulwhasoo Snowise whitening fluid is more suitable. After 2 months application, the whitening result is visible, skin look fairer, since the cream texture is nourish enough, it helps in whitening effects for dry skin.

Here is the massage tips from official website, you can follow it as required to improve blood circulation thus to improve whitening impact for skin, else you could massage it according to your preference massage way.

1. Divide the ears into three parts and gently squeeze each part using your thumbs and index fingers from up down while gently pulling them.
   
2. Divide your ears into three parts and gently pull each part using your hands.
   
3. Wrap your ears with your palms and breathe deeply in comfort to finish up the massage.
   

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Product Comment：Mukti Sebogel

Transparent gel for pimples, contain well known antibacterial plant extracts and essential oils such as lavender, kunzea, lemongrass and tea tree to eliminate impurities and remove excess oil.

It works for small red pimples. Just dot on pimples at the last step of daily skincare routine, they will disappear on the next day upon wake up. Unlike salicylic acid containing commercial pimple gel, Mukti sebogel won't cause dryness and irritation on skin.

It is recommended for spots and blemishes, but big pimples require extra time and may corporate with deep cleansing mask and/or extraction.

Ingredients: Certified Organic Lavender Hydrosol (Lavandula Angustifolia); Sclerotium Gum; Certified Organic Essential Oils of Geranium (Geranium Maculatum), Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia), Kunzea (Kunzea Ericoides) & Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Schoenanthus); Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree blend preservative)

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Beauty Tips： Brightening Herbal Toner DIY

It's a easy-to-made herbal toner utilize common herbs such as ginseng root, red dates and chrysanthemum, at last with few drops of honey. These herbs are reputed as excellent skin foods by improving blood circulation as well as hydrate skin efficiently. Pack them in small bottles and store in chiller to enjoy freshest handmade cosmetic. Upon few days application after cleansing, you will expect a skin complexion with smoother and finer texture.

Ingredient:

ginseng root small pinch, or dong gui if you want
red dates 4-5 pcs
chrysanthemum 4-5 pcs
honey 1/4 tsp
filtered water 100ml

Except honey, put all ingredients in a small double boiler or herbal pot and brew it for 3-5 hours. Ginseng require extra heating time to extract ginsenoside, well-known ginseng saponin compound which contribute whitening effect and perform high antioxidant activity.

When the herbal infusion is cool, mix with honey and pack them into small bottles, it could last for a month if keep in chiller without opening. If the herbal toner leave at room temperature, it can only last less than a week. Water based skincare is active for microorganism growth and always require preservatives to extend their shelf life. Sedimentation is fine, it's starchy compounds from red dates and ginseng.

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Skincare Myth： Can L-ascorbic acid use during Day time?

Some worry about L-ascorbic acid may have photosensitve effect on skin, and question about whether L-ascorbic acid containing products could be used during day time. L-ascorbic acid is one of vitamin C derivatives, including ascorbyl glcoside, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascrobyl palmitate, ascorbic acid.

L-ascorbic acid is not only reduce melanin formation to whiten skin, but also reduce radicals abuse caused by UV exposure to skin, resulting in antioxidant effect. If it is work together with sunscreen, or formulated in sunscreen, it can also enhance effectiveness of UV protection.

Therefore, do not worry about photosensitive problem & use L-ascorbic acid during day and night time.

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Beauty Info： UV protection start from Young

Some kids have freckles when they are only just 10 years old or teenagers during adolescent age. This related to gene, UV exposure, if you could refresh back your memory, UV exposure during your childhood might be highest compare to your campus or working life. Some dermatologists suggest that UV protection should be started during childhood, this could help delaying aging symptoms and pigmentation occur when we age.

It is recommended to use mineral sunscreen mainly formulated by zinc oxide, titanium dioxide with free of fragrance/perfume, which won't cause burden to fragile skin. Either organic sunscreen or sunscreen formulated for baby and kids will do.


Below are examples of certain organic brands targeted for baby & kids, especially their sunscreens
Badger
Erbiviva
Lavera
The Organic Pharmacy


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Whitening Pathway V ： Inflammation Soother

The last whitening mechanism is inflammation soother，soothe inflammation caused by UV rays exposure to suppress inflammable skin further darken when pigmentation formed. However, this is useless for existing melanin beneath on skin, this category won't be effective as whitening agents to bleach away melanin, but if it is applied as prevention to prevent freckles & pigmentation further formed on skin, they could be an excellent source to work on it.

Ellagic acid, chamomile extract, liquorice extract are fall on this category.

These ingredients are not strange in whitening skin cares, usually they are formulated together with melanin reducer or tyrosinase inhibitor to work on sun tanned skin especially sunscreen or UV protector.

Below are examples of whitening skin cares applied inflammation soother as part of active whitening ingredients.
Bobbi Brown Brightening Moisturizer SPF25
Clinique Derma White Moisture Cream
Chanel Blanc Essentiel Whitening Day Emulsion
Awake SR White Serum

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Whitening Pathway IV：Metabolism Improver

Ingredients fall on this category do not really target on melanin, they are not even recognized as whitening ingredients as they cannot prevent melanin formation, nor inhibit tyrosinase like what we had discussed previously. However, they can improve cell renewal, remove dead skin cell to soften skin, thus increase skin metabolism rate as well as improve absorption and penetration of whitening ingredients. Base on this, they can be classified as whitening enhancer.

There is melanin beneath within stratum corneum (outmost layer of epidermis), with exfoliator work on skin, will remove melanin as well. However, if high concentration of chemical exfoliator is applied, skin will inflame and red caused pigmentation.

Fruit acids/AHA (lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid), vitamin A derivatives (retinyl palmitate, retinol, tretinoin and etc), amino acid, phytic acid, BHA (salicylic acid), PHA, enzymes (papain, bromelain and etc) are examples of metabolism improver.

Whitening skin cares will include these ingredients as enhancer to improve penetration of skin, thus contribute better results and achieve whitening effect. Besides whitening skin cares, we can also include some exfoliating items in daily skincare routine. Lemon essential oil, rosehip oil could be used as oil-based serum together with moisturizer during night time to whiten skin.

Besides, DIY-kit peeling program can be done at home to enjoy the similar effect contributed by dermatology skin clinics or beauty salons. These peeling program contains glycolic acid as main peeling ingredient, as low as 20% concentration.

Lancome Resurface Peel

Chanel Micro Solutions Refining Peel 21-day Program

La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Intensive Ampoules

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Whitening Pathway III： Melanin Reducer Part 3

Most whitening ingredients whiten skin through melanin reduction, including existing melanin pigments formed beneath skin, thus it also target to lighten freckles and restore fairness. M-tranexamic acid is initially used in orthopedic surgery to reduce bloodloss, or stop bleeding during menstruation or pregnancy. Surprisingly M-tranexamic acid was found efficiently high in whitening functional activity during oral medication. Further, it is applied in both whitening skin cares and injection since year 2005.

M-tranexamic acid is more stable compare with most whitening ingredients, won't be affected by heat and delivery system. M-tranexamic acid containing whitening skin cares is first launched by Shiseido cosmetic group, brands under Shiseido Cosmetic group including Shiseido White Lucent, Aqua label, Haku and etc market m-tranexamic acid as active whitening ingredient, it can also regulate keratosis rate to control acne production and dismantle rough skin, result in fine and smooth complexion.

Let's see some brands included tranexamic acid as main active ingredient
Shiseido Haku Melanofocus EX
Shiseido Aqualabel whitening
Shiseido White Lucent
Za True White
Bioglo Snow White
Majiami

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Whitening Pathway III：Melanin Reducer Part 2

Besides natural and synthetic source Vitamin C, plant extracts and essential oils are widely applied in whitening skin cares products. Application of plant extracts are gaining popular as the natural trend is hot as fire. Plant extracts show high anti-tyrosinase activity and melanin reduction in a numerous of studies, it is connected when most of plant extracts are often high in antioxidant, some even perform stronger effect than vitamin C and E.

However, most antioxidants are not stable, just like most ascorbic acid derivatives, easily oxidize during exposure to oxygen. That's why plant extracts are formulated together with other whitening agents, for they play roles as whitening enhancer to highlight whitening functions. It is therefore recommended to finish whitening skincares as soon as possible. No point to keep it for more than a year after opening or purchase closed expiry products when discounts are applied. The effects are discounted as well, even preservatives are not able to keep the active whitening ingredients as effective as initial stage.

Tyrosinase inhibitor

Ampelopsis japonica玉竹, Lindera aggregata乌药, Polygonatum odoratum白蔹, Morus alba桑白皮, Panax ginseng人参, rhubarb大黄, Saxifraga 虎耳草，Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi黄芩， Poria cocos 茯苓, chrysanthemum 菊花，nutmeg肉豆蔻， cumin, Dryopteris crassirhizoma粗茎鳞毛蕨, Caragana sinica 金雀花，Tussilago farfara 款冬 and etc.

Melanin reducer

Pharbitis nil牵牛子, Sophora japonica槐树, Spatholobus suberectus鸡血藤, Rhizome atractylodes macrocephala koidz 白术, Hedyotis diffusa 白花蛇舌草, Angelica dahurica白芷, hinokitiol桧木醇，green tea, grapeseed，coffee and etc.

Let's proceed to commercial whitening skin cares brands that emphasize on plant extracts：

1) Chanel Blanc essentiel
The exclusive ENDORMELINE complex, developed by Chanel Laboratories, brings together the properties of three active anti-dark spot ingredients: Narcissus bulb, turmeric, liquorice and a stabilized derivative of Vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside). Narcissus bulb extract is claimed to suppress endothelin that responsible to regulate melanocyte (melanin-producing cell)

2）Kose Sekkisei
Fortified with Polygonatum odoratum白蔹，Cnidium Officinale川芎, Japanese Plectranthus Extract and Bracket Fungus extract for a rich after-feel. Also formulated with Chinese Pearl Barley薏仁, Angelica sinensis当归, Melothria Heteophylla茅瓜, Korean Ginseng高丽参 and Cordyceps Sinensis 冬虫草 for highly translucent and moisturized skin.

3）Kanebo Blanchir
Utilize abundant species of oriental botanicals for exceptional whitening results. Kakyoku firetorn, Magnolignane from Magnolia obovata (functional whitening compound), Saxifraga虎耳草, wheatgerm, Japanese honeysuckle and etc work synergistic to whiten skin efficiently.

4)Estee Lauder Cyber white
RHG3 complex consist of rice bran, mulberry, sage, Scutellaria baicalensis黄芩，green tea polyphenol, hinokitiol, Japanese knotweed, grapes, apple, prune and etc, corporated with N-acetylglucosamine to work in melanin reduction.

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Whitening Pathway III：Melanin Reducer Part 1

Skin will become dark, pigmented due to melanin formation after a long chain of oxidation reaction, while melanin reducer is antioxidants not only reduce oxidation reaction of melanin formation, but also reduce melanin pigments that already formed beneath skin, thus achieve lightening effect.

Vitamin C derivatives including ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), sodium ascorbyl phosphate and etc. Certain plant extracts which high in vitamin C enhance whitening effect in the formulation, such as camu camu, acerola cherry, kakadu plum, prune, quince, mulberry, goji berry/wolfberry, citrus, berries (strawberry, raspberry, bilberry, blueberry, cranberry, açaí berry), pomegranate and etc.

Among these vitamin C derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside is the most stable form and widely applicable in most whitening skin cares brands in the market. For MAP, SAP are less stable, will oxidize and lost function during storage. However, for whitening products containing vitamin C, it is advisable to finish them within 3 months for optimum result after opening. Else you could store them in refrigerator to extend shelf life.

L-ascorbic acid is a non-stable, easily oxidized ascorbic acid derivative, commonly it will be marketed in powder form packed in ampoules. Mix with essence liquid to dilute it upon usage to maximize its effectiveness. It is not only lighten skin within short period, but also stimulate collagen synthesis to firm skin as well as sooth lines.

However, ascorbic acid is low in pH, it is not advisable for sensitive/thin skin to avoid redness and inflammation during high concentration. In addition, L-ascorbic acid should be closed tight to avoid oxidation and utilize within a month.

Some manufacturers emphasize vitamin C packed in liposome or other nano-particles to stabilize it as delivery system transport to skin without any irritation occur during storage. For an instance, Suki intensive brightening series, Cosme decorte white science and Dr brandt laser lightning series.

Below are the brands emphasize on Vitamin C derivatives as whitening agent

Biotherm White Peel Resurfacing for men

Biotherm White D-tox

Clarins White Plus

Declor aroma white

Neutrogena Fine Fairness

Elizabeth Arden Sheer White

Clinique Derma White

SK II whitening source

Shu Uemura White recovery

Kose Whitist

Kose Sekkisei

Cosme Decorte White Science

Paul & Joe

Givenchy Blanc Parfait

Vichy Bi-white

Shiseido White Lucent

Chanel blanc essentiel

Albion Excia White

Mary Kay MelaCEP whitening

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Whitening Pathway II ： Tyrosinase Inhibitor

Some whitening agents are tyrosinase inhibitor, they act as reducing agents on melanin intermediates, thus blocking the oxidation chain reaction at various points from tyrosine /DOPA to melanin. These whitening agents are excellent to lighten pigmentation, prevent tyrosinase oxidize tyrosine and further process to melanin formation.

Hydroquinone, Ellagic Acid, Arbutin (bearberry leaf extract), Glutathion, Glycopeptides, Azelaic acid, Fullerene and etc are fall in this whitening category.

Hydroquinone	the only whitening therapy prescribed by dermatologists with concentration limitations as low as 2-4%, this ingredient can destroy melanin directly but may cause irritation effect on skin and have cancer risk. Spa treatment EX series Deep Bright HQ 1.9
Ellagic Acid	a kind of phenolic acids (antioxidants) exist in strawberry, blueberry, pomegranate Kiehl's, Estee Lauder Cyber white, Clarins White Plus, Naruko, Lancome Blanc Expert Ultimate Whitening Hydrating Emulsion, L'oreal Paris White Perfect Spot Corrector
Arbutin	derived from bearberry leaf, cranberry, mulberry or blueberry shrubs, and also is present in most types of pears. It have melanin-inhibiting properties. There is a study shown that arbutin is photosensitive, now most companies use α-arbutin that do not react with UV rays. Shiseido UV white/Bio-Performance, Cle de Peu serum blanc extra, Missha, Laneige
Glycopeptides	A short chain of amino acids that has sugar molecules attached to it with whitening effect, rarely found in skincares. Vecua
Fullerene	Latest whitening ingredients, super antioxidant which absorb free radicals efficiently, an antimicrobial. Dr Wu whitening range, DHC Fullerence series, Dr Brandt laser lightning day lotion/Flaw no more lightening serum

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Whitening Pathway I：Tyrosinase Competitor

Tyrosinase ( the enzyme responsible for melanin formation) can be inactivated by chelating with its vital copper ion (Cu2+) and suppressing the tautomerization from Dopachrome to DHICA. Without copper ions, tyrosinase cannot activate tyrosine and melanin formation could be reduced.

Kojic acid is the one of the efficient tyrosinase competitors.

Kojic Acid has been used in Japan since 1988 and has extended into other parts of the world,. The word kojic acid is originated from koji, a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of Japanese rice wine. However, kojic acid is an unstable ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn brown and lose its efficacy.

Many cosmetic companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is more stable in formulations. However, kojic acid whitening skincare is not exist in market anymore after some controversial research has suggested that kojic acid may have carcinogenic properties in large doses in mice were found liver cancer.

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Beauty info：Melanin Formation

Melanin determine our skin tone color. Typically, melanin exist in two types: eumelanin & pheomelanin. Eumelanin is dark brown, bigger spot and distribute evenly; Pheomelanin are yellowish red, smaller spot and centralized. Black men have more eumelanin while white men tend to have more pheomelanin, Asians are in between two of them. Gene will determine the amount and type of melanins, thus decide your skin tone whether look fair or dark.

The first step of the biosynthetic pathway for melanin is catalysed by tyrosinase:

Cu2+ → Tyrosinase → L-tyrosine → DOPA → dopaquinone → Melanin

Dopaquinone can combine with cysteine to pheomelanins. Alternatively, dopaquinone can be converted to leucodopachrome and follow two more pathways to the eumelanins.

Dopaquinone + cysteine → 5-S-cysteinyldopa → benzothiazine intermediate → pheomelanin

Dopaquinone → leucodopachrome → dopachrome → 5,6-dihydroxyindole → quinone → eumelanin

The degree of melanin formation is depends on
1) relative concentrations of copper and of the copper-containing enzyme tyrosinase
2) UV rays exposure
3) stress/pressure
4) hormone changes during pregnancy
5) lack of sleep

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