Skincare Myth：Fruit Acids cause Thin Skin?

Fruit acids including AHA, such as lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, as well as BHA.

Fruit acid exfoliate skin, improve skin by adjusting ketosis rate of acne prone skin, thus it controls pimple and heal skin faster. Definitely, excessive usage of fruit acids will cause skin metabolism rate more rapid dramatically, at the moment the ability of skin against extrinsic stimulants/ factors from environments will decrease, it causes sensitivity temporarily and most people will guess their skins become sensitive, become thin skin as their skin may experience redness easily.

In fact, it is not that bad. One could stop application for a week, let skin cell renew in normal rate, and then exfoliate skin consistently (ideally once or twice a week), it will let your skin revive naturally without any side effects or discomforts.

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Skincare Myth：Too Early To use Anti-aging Range?

Some people think that if we are using anti-aging skincare range at early age, it will cause our skin age faster than we could imagine. How true is it?

Applying anti-aging range would not cause skin age faster, aging rate would not increase dramatically. However, most anti-aging skincares are richer, cream-based which are a bit burden for oily skin. Oily skin tend to secrete oil sebum, as they are using anti-aging skincares they may feel greasy, but lighter texture could be contributed by serum with anti-aging effect.

Therefore, there is no such thing using anti-aging skincares in early age will cause our skin age even faster. The clarification is clear enough.

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Approaching Eminence Organics

Incidentally read an article at The Star newspaper about Eminenece Organics open an outlet at 1 utama, this brand from Hungary is famous of its uniqueness points:

1) handmade & fresh
2) contains abundant of active berries extracts
3) smell divine!
4) certified organic by USDA, Demeter & BioKontrolle

Came across this brand during my visit to Hong Kong, i was impressive about their complete organic eye range with not only eye gel & eye cream, but also eye exfoliant and eye mask, which are rare in organic skincares industry. Unluckily, eye exfoliant is not available in Malaysia market yet. This product would help to soften dead skin cell and reduce congestion, perhaps it works for congested eye and fight against oilseeds.

I visited Solaris Mont Kiara outlet named My Beauty Cottage and bought a set of Eminence Organics starter kit for dry skin (RM288) and Rosehip Whip Moisturizer (it's a day cream), spent me RM599. The starter set consists of 5 products: Lemon Cleanser, Rosehip Maize Exfoliating Mask, Blueberry Soy Repair Masque, Naseberry Treatment Cream for day and Linden Calendula Treatment for night.

Let me try for at least a month to share you the testimonials. Stay tune^^


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New EU regulations for Sunscreens: Say Goodbye to Natural Sunscreens

"New European regulations for sunscreens will soon require levels of UVA protection that are impossible to achieve with natural mineral sun filters such as the titanium dioxide in Dr.Hauschka Sunscreens. In order to meet the requirements of these new regulations and maintain our products' SPF ratings, we would be forced to reformulate using synthetic filters."Our unwavering dedication to pure, holistic skin care and BDIH guidelines for natural ingredients prevent us from using synthetic sun filters in our preparations. As a result, Dr.Hauschka Skin Care has made the difficult decision to discontinue our existing sun care range."

As of January 1, 2009, Dr.Hauschka Sun Care products will no longer be available in the U.S."

In September 2006, the European Commission introduced new guidelines for the labelling of sunscreens, as potentially misleading claims about the level of sun protection offered reached the point of controversy. A report in July 2006 found that sun creams claiming to have Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 15 were giving much lower protection, with the lowest measuring SPF 6.3. The health implications were clearly quite serious.

The EC responded by recommending a new labelling system, currently in the process of being brought into effect. New safety margins will mean that products will have to have a buffer zone of 33%, so those which currently offer SPF 15 will have to test for protection at SPF 19.95. The SPF labelling system will also be phased out in favour of something simpler. It will soon no longer be possible for companies acting within the new guidelines to claim ‘complete protection’. Furthermore, sunscreens will have to provide protection against both types of damaging sun rays, UVA and UVB, at a ratio of 1:3.

When chemical sun protection factors are used it is not difficult to achieve the required 1:3 ratio. However, using chemical sun protection factors is out of the question. The result of this new system is that many ‘natural’ product companies are discontinuing their sunscreen ranges. Weleda, Urtekram, Dr. Hauskha, Living Nature and Honesty are no longer producing sunscreens.

The Environment Working Group, a US based not-for-profit organisation which uses information to defend public health and the environment, publishes the Skin Deep website. This is a comprehensive database of the ingredients found in cosmetics products which is founded on research collated from government, industry or academic studies or assessments. It is possible to search for substances, and the results are broken down into different types of risk, ranging from cancer to the ability of substances to accumulate in organisms or the environment (bioaccumulation). The results are summarised in a hazard rating of one to ten and a percentage figure for the data gap, which is a measure of how much is unknown about an ingredient. 0-2 represents a low hazard; 3-6 a moderate hazard and 7-10 a high hazard.

In the sense that we will no longer have mineral based sunscreens to use in future, other than chemical-based sunscreen which usually offered higher SPF, i am thinking to stock up few more bottles of Living Nature sunscreens before it is totally out of stock.

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Product Comment：Sulwhasoo Snowise Whitening Fluid

Start with aromatic oriental herbal scent, if your nose is sensitive enough, you could also smell some alcohol tingle your nose, Sulwhasoo Snowise Whitening Fluid is lightweight moisturizer suitable for oily combination skin. It contains butylene glycol & alcohol, which not only ease penetration of active ingredients but also evaporated easily to give fast absorbing sensation applied upon skin. Cyclopentasiloxane & dimethicone are silicon-based ingredient act as emollient to smooth skin; beta-glucan is an excellent calming ingredient to soothe skin.

Highlighted with plant extract based whitening ingredients, rhubarb, mulberry, chrysanthemum, licorice, ginseng, green tea and abundant of plant extracts. To be honest, this is one of the longest ingredient lists i came across, with plenty of herbal ingredients to create synergistic effects.

This whitening fluid I only recommend to normal skin, combination skin, oily skin, most of skin types but not sensitive skin, as it contains some irritants which may cause allergy reactions to skins.

Ingredients:
Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Alcohol, Glycereth-26, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Camellia Sinensis, Ophiopogon japonicus, Paeonia albiflora, Nelumbo nucifera, Rehmannia glutinosa, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Paeonia suffruticosa, Citrus unshiu, Lycium chinense, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Oil, Angelica Tenuissima Root Extract, Honey, Punica granatum, Beta-Glucan, Cnidium Officinale, Licorice, Angelica acutiloba, Ginkgo Biloba, Portulaca oleracea, Scutellaria baicalensis, Panax ginseng, Paeonia lactiflora, Nelumbo nucifera, Betaine, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Jojoba esters, C14-22 alcohols, Stearic Acid, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-100, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Methoxy PEG-114/Polyepsilon Caprolactone, Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fragance, Rheum Undulatum Root/Stalk/Stem Extract, Broussonetia Kazinokia Root Extract , Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Adenophora Stricta Root Extract , Oldenlandia Diffusa Extract, Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract

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Skincare Myth：Sensitive Skin Care

Some sensitive skin (or so called sensitive skin) will always look for "suitable for sensitive skin", "for all skin types, even the most sensitive skin" in product label when they buy skin cares. In most cases, they claim themselves as sensitive skin when they overcome with tight, redness, itchiness or irritation with certain skin care products, especially new one. Therefore, some will look for mild products to sooth skin condition, may not contribute any healing effect but at least will not cause any complication.

Skincares targeted for sensitive skin is gaining more concerns, even luxury brands such as La Prairie （anti-redness calming range), Declare have also launched sensitive skincares range for sensitive skin, promote cell renewal as well as calm redness. However, when you read the ingredient lists of these so-called sensitive skin products, you will still find a long list of chemicals/natural source which may also cause irritation or reputedly as allergens, such as perfume/fragrance, alcohol (butylene glycol, propylene glycol, panthenol, alcohol denat and etc), SLS, phenoxyethanol, BHT, triethanolamine and much much more. Natural sources of allergens could come from aloe vera, honey, certain essential oils, of course, these are not applicable to all sensitive skins, you have to be observant to understand your own skin than anyone.

In a nutshell, sensitive skin cares are just formulated with lower concentration of fragrance, alcohol or reputable allergens. Other than that, they have not much difference with normal skin cares that suitable for most people. As a consumer, we should smart enough to read ingredients, do not just focus on active ingredients highlighted at flyers/brochures. If you are unlucky to have sensitive skin, easily react with many skin cares in the market, you should have put more efforts to study ingredients, at least find out which ingredients you should avoid. At the same time, look for solutions to curb sensitization, time to grab products with high healing effects or go for other treatments.


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Skincare Myth：No Sun Protection at Home

Most people think that UV ways cannot emit through cement walls, so they do not apply any sunscreen products while staying at home, only apply it when they plan to go outside or any UV/sun exposure opportunities. Thus, do not wonder if these people have any pigmentation concern.

Applying sunscreen is essential even you are just staying at home no place to go. UV ways still can emit through cement walls and penetrate into your skin caused skin problems, just it is not as serious as you direct expose yourself under the hot sun. However, UV radiations could come from non-sun sources such as lightnings, computer monitors, copiers and etc. Therefore, sunscreens with moderate high values of sun protection factor (SPF 15-25) is recommended for everyone to wear in indoor.

So, today you should start to apply it even you are working in office as Office Lady or a housewife spend most of the time at home.


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Skincare Myth： Baby Products are Mild?

Based on the anatomical and functional characteristics of a baby's skin, their skin is more delicate than an adult's and prone to irritant and allergic skin problems. The ideal cleansers, moisturizers, powders, and sunscreens should be very mild to avoid irritation, allergic, or sensitizing skin reactions.

Despite this fairly intuitive, common sense information, it turns out that most skin-care products aimed at children are formulated to be anything but gentle and soothing. They are often an irritation waiting to happen. There are an alarming number of expensive and inexpensive baby products that are marketed as better for young, delicate skin—yet, for the most part, they aren't.

The baby section in the pharmacies, cosmetics counters and health food stores have sweet, adorably packaged shampoos, moisturizers, cleansers, and sun products. You may assume the manufacturers use only ingredients that will be the most gentle to your baby's skin, but that assumption is not accurate. Think about the wafting, appealing fragrances emanating from most baby products you've shopped for. Right there you've recognized a major problem—fragrance, serious enough that it makes me leery of using baby products for anyone's skin, let alone a baby's!

Products for babies and young children are usually highly fragranced. That delicious, recognizable aroma you could smell a mile away is nothing more than added fragrance, which we know can cause irritation. Moreover, baby products always have a pretty yellow or pink tint, which is added with artificial coloring, another group of problematic skin-care ingredients for sensitive skin. If baby products were really gentler than those that adults put on their skin, they would be fragrance free and contain no coloring agents. Sadly, few of those exist.


Cosmetics and hair-care companies know that mothers have an impulsive emotional pull toward scents that trigger the image of their babies. That subconscious pull is difficult for a marketer to ignore, given the way women gravitate to the fragrance generated by other perfume-laden products. In other words, hair and skin-care companies don't have much motivation to take these problematic ingredients out. That means you, the mother and consumer, as an advocate for your child, need to pay attention to this issue and choose fragrance-free and color-free products whenever you can.

Aside from the issue of fragrance and coloring agents, it is even more shocking when baby products contain such skin irritants such as propylene alcohol, alcohol denat, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol and etc. Their presence is disturbing because these are all problematic for an adult's skin and, thus, so much more for a child's. It is essential to avoid products for your child's skin (and yours for that matter) that contain any unnecessary irritants. Just paying attention to the ingredient label will give you far better information than the product description or claims on the package. Ignore the picture on the label of the sweet innocent child, especially when it can disguise a formula that is anything but sweet and innocent.




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Women'Secret Bamboo Bodycare

What do your mind appear when you see Women' Secret? I bet all will say lingerie. This brand keeps a strict eye on both aesthetic and practical detail. However, i just discovered that Women'secret come out with body showering series with eye-catching packaging. Do you ever believe that women'secret has shower gel??? It is not surprising anyway, even samsung or giorgio armani have cosmetic, it is acceptable, for me at least.

The images that i could grab is Women'Secret Bamboo bodycare, together will brilliant green colour catch my eye ball, I believe in this range would smell refreshing green. Not sure when it does arrive in any Malaysia retail store, it is an exciting news for Women'Secret fans.

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Product Comment：Sulwhasoo Snowise Whitening Cream

Scoop out the cream using spatula given, it is a luscious pearl white emulsion with aromatic herbal sensation. This face cream is formulated with Korean medicinal herbs, such as mulberry root, rhubarb, Hedyotis and etc, processed with salt broiling method to enhance medicinal value of these detoxifying antioxidant herbs and recover clear, even color-toned skin. Hedyotis extract helps brighten the complexion by protecting the skin against free radical damage and mulberry tree root extract has a cooling effect on the skin.

Sulwhasoo Snowise whitening cream is applied at the last step of daily skincare routine, after toner/serum, it is absorbed slowly, you have to massage it to help in absorption. In a nutshell, this cream is more suitable for combination dry skin. For normal to combination oily skin, Sulwhasoo Snowise whitening fluid is more suitable. After 2 months application, the whitening result is visible, skin look fairer, since the cream texture is nourish enough, it helps in whitening effects for dry skin.

Here is the massage tips from official website, you can follow it as required to improve blood circulation thus to improve whitening impact for skin, else you could massage it according to your preference massage way.

1. Divide the ears into three parts and gently squeeze each part using your thumbs and index fingers from up down while gently pulling them.
   
2. Divide your ears into three parts and gently pull each part using your hands.
   
3. Wrap your ears with your palms and breathe deeply in comfort to finish up the massage.
   

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Product Comment：Mukti Sebogel

Transparent gel for pimples, contain well known antibacterial plant extracts and essential oils such as lavender, kunzea, lemongrass and tea tree to eliminate impurities and remove excess oil.

It works for small red pimples. Just dot on pimples at the last step of daily skincare routine, they will disappear on the next day upon wake up. Unlike salicylic acid containing commercial pimple gel, Mukti sebogel won't cause dryness and irritation on skin.

It is recommended for spots and blemishes, but big pimples require extra time and may corporate with deep cleansing mask and/or extraction.

Ingredients: Certified Organic Lavender Hydrosol (Lavandula Angustifolia); Sclerotium Gum; Certified Organic Essential Oils of Geranium (Geranium Maculatum), Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia), Kunzea (Kunzea Ericoides) & Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Schoenanthus); Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree blend preservative)

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Beauty Tips： Brightening Herbal Toner DIY

It's a easy-to-made herbal toner utilize common herbs such as ginseng root, red dates and chrysanthemum, at last with few drops of honey. These herbs are reputed as excellent skin foods by improving blood circulation as well as hydrate skin efficiently. Pack them in small bottles and store in chiller to enjoy freshest handmade cosmetic. Upon few days application after cleansing, you will expect a skin complexion with smoother and finer texture.

Ingredient:

ginseng root small pinch, or dong gui if you want
red dates 4-5 pcs
chrysanthemum 4-5 pcs
honey 1/4 tsp
filtered water 100ml

Except honey, put all ingredients in a small double boiler or herbal pot and brew it for 3-5 hours. Ginseng require extra heating time to extract ginsenoside, well-known ginseng saponin compound which contribute whitening effect and perform high antioxidant activity.

When the herbal infusion is cool, mix with honey and pack them into small bottles, it could last for a month if keep in chiller without opening. If the herbal toner leave at room temperature, it can only last less than a week. Water based skincare is active for microorganism growth and always require preservatives to extend their shelf life. Sedimentation is fine, it's starchy compounds from red dates and ginseng.

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Skincare Myth： Can L-ascorbic acid use during Day time?

Some worry about L-ascorbic acid may have photosensitve effect on skin, and question about whether L-ascorbic acid containing products could be used during day time. L-ascorbic acid is one of vitamin C derivatives, including ascorbyl glcoside, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascrobyl palmitate, ascorbic acid.

L-ascorbic acid is not only reduce melanin formation to whiten skin, but also reduce radicals abuse caused by UV exposure to skin, resulting in antioxidant effect. If it is work together with sunscreen, or formulated in sunscreen, it can also enhance effectiveness of UV protection.

Therefore, do not worry about photosensitive problem & use L-ascorbic acid during day and night time.

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Beauty Info： UV protection start from Young

Some kids have freckles when they are only just 10 years old or teenagers during adolescent age. This related to gene, UV exposure, if you could refresh back your memory, UV exposure during your childhood might be highest compare to your campus or working life. Some dermatologists suggest that UV protection should be started during childhood, this could help delaying aging symptoms and pigmentation occur when we age.

It is recommended to use mineral sunscreen mainly formulated by zinc oxide, titanium dioxide with free of fragrance/perfume, which won't cause burden to fragile skin. Either organic sunscreen or sunscreen formulated for baby and kids will do.


Below are examples of certain organic brands targeted for baby & kids, especially their sunscreens
Badger
Erbiviva
Lavera
The Organic Pharmacy


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Whitening Pathway V ： Inflammation Soother

The last whitening mechanism is inflammation soother，soothe inflammation caused by UV rays exposure to suppress inflammable skin further darken when pigmentation formed. However, this is useless for existing melanin beneath on skin, this category won't be effective as whitening agents to bleach away melanin, but if it is applied as prevention to prevent freckles & pigmentation further formed on skin, they could be an excellent source to work on it.

Ellagic acid, chamomile extract, liquorice extract are fall on this category.

These ingredients are not strange in whitening skin cares, usually they are formulated together with melanin reducer or tyrosinase inhibitor to work on sun tanned skin especially sunscreen or UV protector.

Below are examples of whitening skin cares applied inflammation soother as part of active whitening ingredients.
Bobbi Brown Brightening Moisturizer SPF25
Clinique Derma White Moisture Cream
Chanel Blanc Essentiel Whitening Day Emulsion
Awake SR White Serum

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Whitening Pathway IV：Metabolism Improver

Ingredients fall on this category do not really target on melanin, they are not even recognized as whitening ingredients as they cannot prevent melanin formation, nor inhibit tyrosinase like what we had discussed previously. However, they can improve cell renewal, remove dead skin cell to soften skin, thus increase skin metabolism rate as well as improve absorption and penetration of whitening ingredients. Base on this, they can be classified as whitening enhancer.

There is melanin beneath within stratum corneum (outmost layer of epidermis), with exfoliator work on skin, will remove melanin as well. However, if high concentration of chemical exfoliator is applied, skin will inflame and red caused pigmentation.

Fruit acids/AHA (lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid), vitamin A derivatives (retinyl palmitate, retinol, tretinoin and etc), amino acid, phytic acid, BHA (salicylic acid), PHA, enzymes (papain, bromelain and etc) are examples of metabolism improver.

Whitening skin cares will include these ingredients as enhancer to improve penetration of skin, thus contribute better results and achieve whitening effect. Besides whitening skin cares, we can also include some exfoliating items in daily skincare routine. Lemon essential oil, rosehip oil could be used as oil-based serum together with moisturizer during night time to whiten skin.

Besides, DIY-kit peeling program can be done at home to enjoy the similar effect contributed by dermatology skin clinics or beauty salons. These peeling program contains glycolic acid as main peeling ingredient, as low as 20% concentration.

Lancome Resurface Peel

Chanel Micro Solutions Refining Peel 21-day Program

La Prairie Swiss Cellular White Intensive Ampoules

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Whitening Pathway III： Melanin Reducer Part 3

Most whitening ingredients whiten skin through melanin reduction, including existing melanin pigments formed beneath skin, thus it also target to lighten freckles and restore fairness. M-tranexamic acid is initially used in orthopedic surgery to reduce bloodloss, or stop bleeding during menstruation or pregnancy. Surprisingly M-tranexamic acid was found efficiently high in whitening functional activity during oral medication. Further, it is applied in both whitening skin cares and injection since year 2005.

M-tranexamic acid is more stable compare with most whitening ingredients, won't be affected by heat and delivery system. M-tranexamic acid containing whitening skin cares is first launched by Shiseido cosmetic group, brands under Shiseido Cosmetic group including Shiseido White Lucent, Aqua label, Haku and etc market m-tranexamic acid as active whitening ingredient, it can also regulate keratosis rate to control acne production and dismantle rough skin, result in fine and smooth complexion.

Let's see some brands included tranexamic acid as main active ingredient
Shiseido Haku Melanofocus EX
Shiseido Aqualabel whitening
Shiseido White Lucent
Za True White
Bioglo Snow White
Majiami

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Whitening Pathway III：Melanin Reducer Part 2

Besides natural and synthetic source Vitamin C, plant extracts and essential oils are widely applied in whitening skin cares products. Application of plant extracts are gaining popular as the natural trend is hot as fire. Plant extracts show high anti-tyrosinase activity and melanin reduction in a numerous of studies, it is connected when most of plant extracts are often high in antioxidant, some even perform stronger effect than vitamin C and E.

However, most antioxidants are not stable, just like most ascorbic acid derivatives, easily oxidize during exposure to oxygen. That's why plant extracts are formulated together with other whitening agents, for they play roles as whitening enhancer to highlight whitening functions. It is therefore recommended to finish whitening skincares as soon as possible. No point to keep it for more than a year after opening or purchase closed expiry products when discounts are applied. The effects are discounted as well, even preservatives are not able to keep the active whitening ingredients as effective as initial stage.

Tyrosinase inhibitor

Ampelopsis japonica玉竹, Lindera aggregata乌药, Polygonatum odoratum白蔹, Morus alba桑白皮, Panax ginseng人参, rhubarb大黄, Saxifraga 虎耳草，Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi黄芩， Poria cocos 茯苓, chrysanthemum 菊花，nutmeg肉豆蔻， cumin, Dryopteris crassirhizoma粗茎鳞毛蕨, Caragana sinica 金雀花，Tussilago farfara 款冬 and etc.

Melanin reducer

Pharbitis nil牵牛子, Sophora japonica槐树, Spatholobus suberectus鸡血藤, Rhizome atractylodes macrocephala koidz 白术, Hedyotis diffusa 白花蛇舌草, Angelica dahurica白芷, hinokitiol桧木醇，green tea, grapeseed，coffee and etc.

Let's proceed to commercial whitening skin cares brands that emphasize on plant extracts：

1) Chanel Blanc essentiel
The exclusive ENDORMELINE complex, developed by Chanel Laboratories, brings together the properties of three active anti-dark spot ingredients: Narcissus bulb, turmeric, liquorice and a stabilized derivative of Vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside). Narcissus bulb extract is claimed to suppress endothelin that responsible to regulate melanocyte (melanin-producing cell)

2）Kose Sekkisei
Fortified with Polygonatum odoratum白蔹，Cnidium Officinale川芎, Japanese Plectranthus Extract and Bracket Fungus extract for a rich after-feel. Also formulated with Chinese Pearl Barley薏仁, Angelica sinensis当归, Melothria Heteophylla茅瓜, Korean Ginseng高丽参 and Cordyceps Sinensis 冬虫草 for highly translucent and moisturized skin.

3）Kanebo Blanchir
Utilize abundant species of oriental botanicals for exceptional whitening results. Kakyoku firetorn, Magnolignane from Magnolia obovata (functional whitening compound), Saxifraga虎耳草, wheatgerm, Japanese honeysuckle and etc work synergistic to whiten skin efficiently.

4)Estee Lauder Cyber white
RHG3 complex consist of rice bran, mulberry, sage, Scutellaria baicalensis黄芩，green tea polyphenol, hinokitiol, Japanese knotweed, grapes, apple, prune and etc, corporated with N-acetylglucosamine to work in melanin reduction.

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Whitening Pathway III：Melanin Reducer Part 1

Skin will become dark, pigmented due to melanin formation after a long chain of oxidation reaction, while melanin reducer is antioxidants not only reduce oxidation reaction of melanin formation, but also reduce melanin pigments that already formed beneath skin, thus achieve lightening effect.

Vitamin C derivatives including ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), sodium ascorbyl phosphate and etc. Certain plant extracts which high in vitamin C enhance whitening effect in the formulation, such as camu camu, acerola cherry, kakadu plum, prune, quince, mulberry, goji berry/wolfberry, citrus, berries (strawberry, raspberry, bilberry, blueberry, cranberry, açaí berry), pomegranate and etc.

Among these vitamin C derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside is the most stable form and widely applicable in most whitening skin cares brands in the market. For MAP, SAP are less stable, will oxidize and lost function during storage. However, for whitening products containing vitamin C, it is advisable to finish them within 3 months for optimum result after opening. Else you could store them in refrigerator to extend shelf life.

L-ascorbic acid is a non-stable, easily oxidized ascorbic acid derivative, commonly it will be marketed in powder form packed in ampoules. Mix with essence liquid to dilute it upon usage to maximize its effectiveness. It is not only lighten skin within short period, but also stimulate collagen synthesis to firm skin as well as sooth lines.

However, ascorbic acid is low in pH, it is not advisable for sensitive/thin skin to avoid redness and inflammation during high concentration. In addition, L-ascorbic acid should be closed tight to avoid oxidation and utilize within a month.

Some manufacturers emphasize vitamin C packed in liposome or other nano-particles to stabilize it as delivery system transport to skin without any irritation occur during storage. For an instance, Suki intensive brightening series, Cosme decorte white science and Dr brandt laser lightning series.

Below are the brands emphasize on Vitamin C derivatives as whitening agent

Biotherm White Peel Resurfacing for men

Biotherm White D-tox

Clarins White Plus

Declor aroma white

Neutrogena Fine Fairness

Elizabeth Arden Sheer White

Clinique Derma White

SK II whitening source

Shu Uemura White recovery

Kose Whitist

Kose Sekkisei

Cosme Decorte White Science

Paul & Joe

Givenchy Blanc Parfait

Vichy Bi-white

Shiseido White Lucent

Chanel blanc essentiel

Albion Excia White

Mary Kay MelaCEP whitening

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